Fini- Au Revoir

Hemingway wrote of Paris:

"There is never any ending to Paris and the memory of each person who has lived in it differs from that of any other. We always returned to it no matter who we were or how it was changed or with what difficulties, or ease, it could be reached. Paris was always worth it and you received return for whatever you brought to it." ~A Moveable Feast~

I write of Paris:

"Paris is worth it. All the steps, cobblestones and arches wash away under the vaulted trees, wide walkways, flowered boulevards and marked with the shadows of the city. Walk quietly with the winds returning the memories of the Champs Elysee to the night and the moon above. The moon dark sky lit the city and the Cite' returned the favor... easily." ~i-Ross~

Poets and Dreamers

Mistress of My Desires




Your breath, warm and fleeting on the back of my neck

brings a smile to my face.

The memory of you lingers in my mind like a song that

resonates in my heart.





Your heartbeat energizes my being.

the pulsing rhythm of your existence

haunts me, makes my days and night

move forward with a pace that cannot be denied.



Your essence fills my soul and stimulates my senses.

I'm reminded of you by a fleeting scent that assails my nose

while strolling carelessly down the street.

a sound or song that invades my solitude returns me

to your loving embrace.



You wrap yourself around my mind and body

like a blanker of security. Leaving me in a cocoon

of complete acceptance and sheer joy.



You are an integral part of my life.

The heart of my being,

The director of my soul.

The mistress of my desires.

You are Paris.



Rebecca Jane Evilsizer (Alford)

Practical Paris Planning

I recommend the following hotels: A + indicates HIGH recommendation

Hotel Camelia

24, bd Pasteur (métro Pasteur) 75015 Tel. 33 (0)1 47 83 76 35 - Fax 33 (0)1 40 65 94 98

www.hotelcameliaparis15.com

+ Hotel Acacias Hotel de Ville

20, rue du Temple
Tel. 01 48 87 07 70- Fax 01 48 87 17 20
www.acacias-hotel..com
0, rue du Temple

+ Hotel rue du Rivoli
19 Rue De Rivoli
Paris

+ Hotel Victoria Chatelet

17 Avenue Victoria . Paris 75001
Tel: (+33) 1 40 26 90 17 - Fax: (+33) 1 40 26 35 61
http://www.hovica.com/

Hotel Roma Sacre Coeur

101 Rue Caulaincourt
Paris, 75018

Hotel Montparnasse Alesia
147 Ter Rue D’Alesia
Paris 75014

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Paris Arrondissements

1st (1er). The geographical centre of Paris and a great starting point for travelers. The Louvre Museum, the Jardin des Tuileries, Place Vendôme, Les Halles and Palais Royal are all to be found here.
2nd (2e). The central business district of the city - the Bourse (the Paris Stock Exchange) and the Bibliothèque Nationale are located here.
3rd (3e). Archives Nationales, Musée Carnavalet, Conservatoire des Arts et Métiers, the northern, quieter part of the Marais
4th (4e). Notre-Dame Cathedral, the Hôtel de Ville ( Paris town hall), Beaubourg, le Marais (gay Paris)
5th (5e). Jardin des Plantes, Quartier Latin, Universités, La Sorbonne, Le Panthéon
6th (6e). Jardin du Luxembourg, Saint-Germain des Prés
7th (7e). Tour Eiffel, Les Invalides, Musée d'Orsay
8th (8e). Champs-Elysées, the Palais de l'Elysée, la Madeleine
9th (9e). Opéra Garnier, Grands Magasins
10th (10e). Canal Saint-Martin, Gare du Nord, Gare de l'Est
11th (11e). the bars and restaurants of Rue Oberkampf, Bastille, Nation, New Jewish Quarter
12th (12e). Opéra Bastille, Bercy Park and Village, Promenade plantée, Quartier d'Aligre, Gare de Lyon, the Bois de Vincennes
13th (13e). Quartier Chinois, Place d'Italie, La Butte aux Cailles, Bibliothèque Nationale de France (BNF)
14th (14e). Montparnasse Cemetery, Denfert-Rochereau, Parc Montsouris
15th (15e). Montparnasse Tower, Gare Montparnasse, Stadiums
16th (16e). Palais de Chaillot, Musée de l'Homme, the Bois de Boulogne
17th (17e). Palais des Congrès, Place de Clichy

18th (18e). Montmartre, Pigalle, Barbès

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Paris Sights

The Eiffel Tower: When you mention Paris, most people automatically think of the Eiffel Tower. The Eiffel Tower was built for the 1889 World Exposition. When the tower was first unveiled, the populace thought it was a towering monstrosity, and it was nearly torn down. Since then, more than 220 million people have visited the Eiffel Tower, and it has become a national icon. The tower is beautiful to behold when lit up, and offers a spectacular view from above, or below.

Notre Dame Cathedral: The Notre Dame took over a century to build, and was once the center of medieval Paris. It is probably the most beautiful cathedral in all of Europe.

Arc de Triomphe and Champs Elysees: The Arc was built by Emperor Napoleon, and offers a fantastic view. No trip to Paris is complete without seeing the sculptures and reliefs that adorn the arch. The promenade offers some spectacular shopping opportunities, as well as an assortment of cafes.

Versailles: Versailles was home to the King of France, as well as the seat of their government for more than 100 years. While walking through this remarkable palace, you'll feel like your walking in the footsteps of nobility. Inside you'll find the Hall of Mirrors, which consists of 250ft of sheer glass. The Louvre: The Louvre is home to some of the most famous works of art in the world.

Pere Lachaise Cemetery: The crypts are amazing to behold, and there are some extremely famous people buried here. Including Jim Morrison, Oscar Wilde and Richard Wright of Pink Floyd fame, Marcel Marceau and George Seurrat.

Seine River Cruise: See the majesty of Paris glide by while riding in a glass boat. You'll get to see the Eiffel Tower, old historic bridges and even the Notre Dame Cathedral.

Musee d'Orsay: One of the most visited museums on the planet, the Musee d'Orsay holds the biggest collection of sculptures and paintings produced between the years 1848 and 1914. If you're a lover of art, then this is a sight you won't want to miss.

The Sorbonne: Founded in 1257, the Sorbonne is one of Europe's oldest universities, and many a great thinker has wandered its halls.

Sacre Coeur and Montmartre: This basilica dominates the highest point of Paris, and was consecrated in 1909. It boasts gold mosaic interiors , and offers a magnificent view of the city below.

Catacombs: The catacombs have got to be one of the most popular sights in Paris among backpackers. These underground tunnels are lined with the neatly stacked bones of millions of Parisians which were placed in a disused quarry around 200 years ago to solve the problems of the city's crowded cemeteries. You get to walk a 1.6km stretch of tunnel and a guard will check your bags (for stolen bones) when you come out at the other end).


Centre Georges Pompidou: Also known as the Centre Beaubourg, this modern sits right in the heart of Paris and is home to an incredible array of modern art, a cyber café, a couple of restaurants and an excellent library. Although you have to pay to visit the art galleries, it is free to ride up to the top floor in the glass-tube escalators for a free view of the city centre. The library is also free (although there is often a long queue to get in) and has some English language books and newspapers, CD listening stations and free use of language courses on CD-ROM and cassette.


Hôtel de Ville: Famous as the backdrop in Robert Doisneau's photograph Le Basier de l'Hôtel de Ville, the town hall is an elaborate neo-Renaisaance style building which sometimes hosts exhibitions.

Musée Jacquemart-André: This small museum displays the private collection of Adouart André and Nellie Jacquemart, which features Botticellis, Rembrandts and 18th-century tapestries, furniture and objects d'art.

Musée du Louvre: This huge (about a third of a kilometer long) art museum is home to some of the most important pieces of art in the western world including the Mona Lisa and the Venus de Milo. The Louvre has recently received a billion dollar face-lift which has included the construction of a new entrance through a glass pyramid in the courtyard leading to an underground shopping mall and food court. During weekends and school holidays it can get very busy with very long queues, usually the easiest way to avoid some of the queues is by entering through the Carrousel du Louvre (shopping mall) - on rare occasions when there are queues in the Carrousel du Louvre you can try to jump the queue by telling the guard that you just want to get to the post office which is located near the entrance.


Musée National du Moyen Age: The Musée National du Moyen Age displays antiquities from the Middle Ages and is noted for its large collection of tapestries, which includes the famous Lady and the Unicorn Tapestries.


Le Panthéon: Although originally commissioned by Louis XV as a church, this prominent landmark is now the final resting place of many of France's most influential figures including Victor Hugo, Rousseau, Voltaire and Pierre and Marie Curie.


Tour Montparnasse: An amazing view of Paris from the top of the city's tallest office building. You can take the lift to the 56th floor of la Tour Montparnasse and then climb the stairs to the open-air observation deck on the 59th floor. It is best to get here just before sunset so you can see Paris in daylight, sunset and night.


Musée d'Orsay: After the Louvre, the Musée d'Orsay is perhaps the most important art museum in Paris. This former railway station has been converted into a pleasant art gallery housing the works of some of Europe's most important impressionist, post-impressionist and art nouveau artists.


Place de l'Opera: This square, which is often referred to as the Hub of the Universe. The Place de I'Opera was first projected in 1857 by Baron Haussmann, a sub-prefect under Napoleon III, to whom we owe so much for the modernization of Paris.

The Lapin Agile: Lapin Agile, Paris cabaret, is located in the center of the Montmartre district in the 18th arrondissement of Paris, behind and slightly northwest of Sacre Coeur Basilica. Today, many people visit the Lapin Agile, sitting at wooden tables where initials have been carved into the surfaces for decades. Located in a stone building on the steep and cobbled Rue des Saules, the cabaret presents visitors with French songs dating back as far as the fifteenth century.

Of People and Places

The fountains of the Louvre.

The City from Montmartre.
The contemporary meeting in the street of Paris.

The Louvre- Art historians mecca within the artisic community.

Bookstalls Line the Seine to ply their wares.
The arch commemorating the place of Beheadings during the Revolution.
The imposing prison of the Concergerie.

Dancing at the Meteora.

Street Scenes

Of course after crossing the Seine and entering the Latin Quarter, a cacophony of sounds sights and a menagerie of people and personalities emerge. this area, known primarily for its nightlife, is thriving and alive at any time- it is the petit city that rarely sleeps. Lined with bistros, cafes, brasseries, boulangerie, jazz clubs, boutiques, bookshops and tourist shops, the area provides entertainment for all ages and all desires. The Latin Quarter is a street wander becomes walking feast through crooked, cobblestones streets of old. it is a moving passageway to neon light, old world, voices of the multi lingual personalities and a roaring backlash of "tourism" at its height.

Shakespeare and Company bookstore is there (they will stamp your book purchase for you) where you can find all things literary. I'm a Hemingway fanatic and always purchase something of his at this shop. If the attic is open (rarely) venture the old worn steps. It is a small reading room with comfortable seating, views of the river and rustic in nature. This is a definite must, especially if the resident cat strolls by and gives you the nod of approval.

The St. Severin is a favorite for coffee and people watching and wonderful for an evening cognac or wine.. If you desire a passion for fish entrees, le Luna is in store. Under yellow washed walls and small cramped quarters where every gets to know you, you can dine on some of the best french fish dishes I have found in the city. If you are in the mood for Greek food, Le Meteora will give you hours of enjoyment. Greek aperitifs, main course skewers, great chocolate mousse, and drinks to which i could never even pronounce let alone spell. All food is served with live music, dancing and cajoling waiters, unsuspecting diners hoisted onto table tops and give lessons in dancing, a circle dance to the cheers and roar of the crowded restaurant. Songs are sung by everyone and plates are dashed to the floor in celebration of a great meal, new friends and yells and squeal's of laughter.

The street food amidst the convergence of the street performers and both french residents and visitors is best for food on the move. Crepes of any fashion, bread and cheese, hot dogs (yes they are there but so much better than home), all things felafel's and hand carved meats, chocolates and sweets by the delectable mouthful. There is a flavor and style for every palate and all one has to do is decide- now therein lies the problem...

Crossing the river will find you facing the looming Les Halles and the Marais. The morning finds the area recovering from the night past, and the night finds the area anticipating the coming day. these areas, cyclical in their nature attract the young and old alike to experience the flavor and excitement of another sort. The Forum is a garden contradiction to the area and the surrounding environs. The lattice work arches and infant gardens are set within the tubular glassed office and steel girders bordering Pompidou. The freshly cut grasses waft aromas and clash against the girdered steel of the "new" Paris. And incongruent clashing of wills if you may- One that is difficult to reconcile.

The narrow streets of old, lead to the Hotel de Ville and BHV near the Seine. A political palace of traditionalism is preferable. This preference stems from the flair of the Siene, the cutting edge of romanticism, separating the banks of creativity and logic. Walk the Rue du Rivoli and these sharpened contrasts become even more clear to the observer. They become a mix of art, passion and respect with dashes of logical, cubist colorings. Ahead, lies the magnificence of the turreted Concergerie- the prison which claims the honor of holding Marie Antoinette prior to her death. It is an imposing structure and in its full day a menacing one. today, a museum of infinite proportions holds history in regard and with a gardening calm. so much so, that the stoned walls and inner ambience's seem to belie the true meaning for its existence. similar to the Bastille area with no sign of the actual building.

But if you stop for a moment, sit and truly look, you will see that the world passes frantically yet slowly before you. Each person is on a mission in a city of mobile transience. It is as if the bridges, cobblestones and crooked streets have converged with the Life to which it surrenders. Yet, these elements blend together, fuse and become one- one that can be recalled time and time again without hesitation, for they have made an indelible imprint on your heart.

City of Contrasts

The cosmopolitan boulevards which cut the streets in a swath of gentile buildings and the working class neighbors provide a start contrast to an already contradictory city. The former is a place of contemplation, relaxation and a moment to "see"- much of the statuesque Paris is bound in history and loosened by the technologies recent to the country and world.

In contrast, the religious Sacre Coeur and Montmartre in the 18th Arrondissment, cause less reflection and more, well- pain. I should have taken the subway to Pigalle, but NO- I chose Abbesses as it seemed such a logical mapping choice. From the station it is a spiral stairway imbued with murals of all fashion, sort and color. It is definitely a feast of creativity for about 30 steps. But, as I go further upward not thinking this is a trial by fire, the top is just one more turn...WRONG. Hundreds of steps later, 3 breathing stops and half a bottle of water, I reach the top. This was worse than the Catacomb steps I think- but as my head is swirling, my only focus is the end, so I cannot really say for sure. I stopped looking at the mural and focused on my feet- Keep going, Keep going, for if you don't, there is only one option and that is go back down. Now, did I mention there was a elevator (lift)? I missed that piece of information when i say the murals and just HAD to see them.

After a short rest and walk down a lane, looking up the steep hill from here is the white domed Sacre Coeur...A wise man remembers: Look later. See if there is an elevator. (yes! a funicular will take you to the top) vistas of the city are breathtaking from the summit and the cathedral rests and is a beacon for those who gather. The steps and rails are filled with cameras, videos and throngs of people merely staring and watching the light change on the vast landscaped city beneath. It is a breathtaking vantage point for all who yearn to see the city from above.

This monument is the white dove in the sky and sits amidst an idyllic setting overlooking a foggy city shrouded in mist. Inside the church itself, it is quiet and relatively small for the churches here, yet it is a focal point of religious faith in France. Notaries visit and worship in the stained glass prism reflections on the side prayer sections and confessionals. It is was an enormous undertaking while being built with the white tile-like domes in elongated shapes reaching the sky canvas of blue.

Montmartre's "Place du Terte" is the ultimate tourist invasion and tour bus haven. It was originally an artist enclave and creative mecca for art purveyors. Now, this starving artist area has a modern twist- the artists certainly are NOT starving. Much of the artist display area has been assigned to restaurants for outside seating, buses arrive with tourists and flag holding guides to keep order and it seems as if the outdoor mall has been born. i marvel at the changes each time i visit. I wandered to Le Consulat, a triangle restaurant where many movies were filmed- the more notable, "Aimee". Nearby, Au Clairon de Chasseurs restaurant is decked in blue and white, sported lively waiters in suspenders, hats, fitted pants and personalities of lively warmth. They treated us well, have a flair for fun plus, the meal was expedient, well served, timely and delivered with,"Bon Apetit".

The subway takes me to the Sorbonne. It has become an intellectual contrast to Montmartre. The Place de Sorbonne centers itself with its energy, ethereal discussions and youth of experimentation. Tabac et Sorbonne is where I rest and then walk and listen to the conversations and obvious education mindtalking. As I wander, the wind always his me in the face and by the Pantheon, the Univeriste' and Faculte' buildings all resound with the phrase " Liberty, Equality, Fraternity". The Pantheon is an architectural wonder ass the busts of Aquinnas, Moliere, Hugo and others, stare muted at those who pass. A small section of history looms in a tiny section of intellectual inquisitiveness.

A long but adventurous walk takes me to the evening destination of Opera Garnier, the centerpiece of the L'Opera. As night approaches slowly, the Opera is lit and sparkled with golden highlights. composers, arched walkways and marble -like steps, illuminate all of the square. A bustle of activity abound in the area as shops and merchants are still open, commuters ascend from the subway and vehicles wend their way through the crowded streets and boulevards. Sitting at Triador Haussman on the corner of L'Opera, gives one the opportunity to see a different Paris. Women are dressed up and chic, look smart with men in dress clothes, oftentimes scarved or jacketed for the evening. They aren't all going to the opera, but look smart- until the jeaned, sloppy over sized shirted Americans shift the focus. Even the demeanor and posturing is sharply different. Again the fashion contraction is truly apparent and I prefer the former. I wonder why?

Finding the Human Side of Tranquility

Finding the unexpected in this city is not difficult as it confronts you at every turn if you are only willing to look. The morning finds us crossing a cultural divide as we stretch our legs in the direction of Avenue L'Armee at the Porte Maillot stations. Expecting a quaint side of the city, we found the Porte MALL. Naturally challenged in a mall, we walked completely around it until we gave up trying to find anything interesting but modern Paris. The subway took us to a different world however.

Off the subway at Argentine, we did find the Avenue and quickly realized this was the centerpiece for any gear head. Not that I mind, but it just isn't my thing. The street is lined with car (voiture) dealerships, motorcycle shops and repairs, bicycle stores and all thing mechanic. It is a window shoppers paradise for all thing "motor". Upon reaching the walkway of the Arch de Triumph, we were able to walk the full length of the Champs Elysee with "Freeman in Paris" resounding in our minds.

Sidetracked from the main Boulevard, the Palais Royale, Petit Palace and the Alexander Bridge filled with gilded lampposts, takes us in a new direction. The dark rainclouds loom above but Simone Bolivar, Winston Churchill and Clemenceau statues stand as a testament to the honor paid for and assistance to humankind during times of crisis. Their firm and imposing presence cause one to pause and reflect on the world outside the city and the influences the global community has made. but beyond the political influences lie the ordinary man- the man who inhabits and lives, breathes and works here. They are in all shapes and sizes, but those most likely to attract my attention are the homeless, out of work or poverty stricken with their animals. They enhabit the sidewalks, doorways, corners, alleys and niches of the city. Seeing them with their animals brings out the best in me and I have to chip in and do my fair share. I must think it goes for the welfare of the animal and i merely cannot resist.

The 2 hefty dachshunds sitting upright in the bearded mans lap, the calico cat sitting atop the kitty carrier and the golden lab carrying a basket in his mouth for "contributions" and a lapping kiss. It doesn't seem unusually sad as they all look well cared for and fed, but I still have to give of myself to the animals and their owners of the world. I know I would want to be helped out if I needed it. Each time, 1-4e seems little to give when I and my animals (dog and 2 cats) are fine. A man with an organ grinder on the Grande Boulevard with his sleeping dog and cat under an umbrella come to mind. I have not seen them this trip and worry that the animals have passed...

This afternoon, i head to the 18th Arrondissment....