Friday, July 3, 2009

Street Scenes


Of course after crossing the Seine and entering the Latin Quarter, a cacophony of sounds sights and a menagerie of people and personalities emerge. this area, known primarily for its nightlife, is thriving and alive at any time- it is the petit city that rarely sleeps. Lined with bistros, cafes, brasseries, boulangerie, jazz clubs, boutiques, bookshops and tourist shops, the area provides entertainment for all ages and all desires. The Latin Quarter is a street wander becomes walking feast through crooked, cobblestones streets of old. it is a moving passageway to neon light, old world, voices of the multi lingual personalities and a roaring backlash of "tourism" at its height.


Shakespeare and Company bookstore is there (they will stamp your book purchase for you) where you can find all things literary. I'm a Hemingway fanatic and always purchase something of his at this shop. If the attic is open (rarely) venture the old worn steps. It is a small reading room with comfortable seating, views of the river and rustic in nature. This is a definite must, especially if the resident cat strolls by and gives you the nod of approval.


The St. Severin is a favorite for coffee and people watching and wonderful for an evening cognac or wine.. If you desire a passion for fish entrees, le Luna is in store. Under yellow washed walls and small cramped quarters where every gets to know you, you can dine on some of the best french fish dishes I have found in the city. If you are in the mood for Greek food, Le Meteora will give you hours of enjoyment. Greek aperitifs, main course skewers, great chocolate mousse, and drinks to which i could never even pronounce let alone spell. All food is served with live music, dancing and cajoling waiters, unsuspecting diners hoisted onto table tops and give lessons in dancing, a circle dance to the cheers and roar of the crowded restaurant. Songs are sung by everyone and plates are dashed to the floor in celebration of a great meal, new friends and yells and squeal's of laughter.


The street food amidst the convergence of the street performers and both french residents and visitors is best for food on the move. Crepes of any fashion, bread and cheese, hot dogs (yes they are there but so much better than home), all things felafel's and hand carved meats, chocolates and sweets by the delectable mouthful. There is a flavor and style for every palate and all one has to do is decide- now therein lies the problem...


Crossing the river will find you facing the looming Les Halles and the Marais. The morning finds the area recovering from the night past, and the night finds the area anticipating the coming day. these areas, cyclical in their nature attract the young and old alike to experience the flavor and excitement of another sort. The Forum is a garden contradiction to the area and the surrounding environs. The lattice work arches and infant gardens are set within the tubular glassed office and steel girders bordering Pompidou. The freshly cut grasses waft aromas and clash against the girdered steel of the "new" Paris. And incongruent clashing of wills if you may- One that is difficult to reconcile.

The narrow streets of old, lead to the Hotel de Ville and BHV near the Seine. A political palace of traditionalism is preferable. This preference stems from the flair of the Siene, the cutting edge of romanticism, separating the banks of creativity and logic. Walk the Rue du Rivoli and these sharpened contrasts become even more clear to the observer. They become a mix of art, passion and respect with dashes of logical, cubist colorings. Ahead, lies the magnificence of the turreted Concergerie- the prison which claims the honor of holding Marie Antoinette prior to her death. It is an imposing structure and in its full day a menacing one. today, a museum of infinite proportions holds history in regard and with a gardening calm. so much so, that the stoned walls and inner ambience's seem to belie the true meaning for its existence. similar to the Bastille area with no sign of the actual building.


But if you stop for a moment, sit and truly look, you will see that the world passes frantically yet slowly before you. Each person is on a mission in a city of mobile transience. It is as if the bridges, cobblestones and crooked streets have converged with the Life to which it surrenders. Yet, these elements blend together, fuse and become one- one that can be recalled time and time again without hesitation, for they have made an indelible imprint on your heart.

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