City of Contrasts

The cosmopolitan boulevards which cut the streets in a swath of gentile buildings and the working class neighbors provide a start contrast to an already contradictory city. The former is a place of contemplation, relaxation and a moment to "see"- much of the statuesque Paris is bound in history and loosened by the technologies recent to the country and world.

In contrast, the religious Sacre Coeur and Montmartre in the 18th Arrondissment, cause less reflection and more, well- pain. I should have taken the subway to Pigalle, but NO- I chose Abbesses as it seemed such a logical mapping choice. From the station it is a spiral stairway imbued with murals of all fashion, sort and color. It is definitely a feast of creativity for about 30 steps. But, as I go further upward not thinking this is a trial by fire, the top is just one more turn...WRONG. Hundreds of steps later, 3 breathing stops and half a bottle of water, I reach the top. This was worse than the Catacomb steps I think- but as my head is swirling, my only focus is the end, so I cannot really say for sure. I stopped looking at the mural and focused on my feet- Keep going, Keep going, for if you don't, there is only one option and that is go back down. Now, did I mention there was a elevator (lift)? I missed that piece of information when i say the murals and just HAD to see them.

After a short rest and walk down a lane, looking up the steep hill from here is the white domed Sacre Coeur...A wise man remembers: Look later. See if there is an elevator. (yes! a funicular will take you to the top) vistas of the city are breathtaking from the summit and the cathedral rests and is a beacon for those who gather. The steps and rails are filled with cameras, videos and throngs of people merely staring and watching the light change on the vast landscaped city beneath. It is a breathtaking vantage point for all who yearn to see the city from above.

This monument is the white dove in the sky and sits amidst an idyllic setting overlooking a foggy city shrouded in mist. Inside the church itself, it is quiet and relatively small for the churches here, yet it is a focal point of religious faith in France. Notaries visit and worship in the stained glass prism reflections on the side prayer sections and confessionals. It is was an enormous undertaking while being built with the white tile-like domes in elongated shapes reaching the sky canvas of blue.

Montmartre's "Place du Terte" is the ultimate tourist invasion and tour bus haven. It was originally an artist enclave and creative mecca for art purveyors. Now, this starving artist area has a modern twist- the artists certainly are NOT starving. Much of the artist display area has been assigned to restaurants for outside seating, buses arrive with tourists and flag holding guides to keep order and it seems as if the outdoor mall has been born. i marvel at the changes each time i visit. I wandered to Le Consulat, a triangle restaurant where many movies were filmed- the more notable, "Aimee". Nearby, Au Clairon de Chasseurs restaurant is decked in blue and white, sported lively waiters in suspenders, hats, fitted pants and personalities of lively warmth. They treated us well, have a flair for fun plus, the meal was expedient, well served, timely and delivered with,"Bon Apetit".

The subway takes me to the Sorbonne. It has become an intellectual contrast to Montmartre. The Place de Sorbonne centers itself with its energy, ethereal discussions and youth of experimentation. Tabac et Sorbonne is where I rest and then walk and listen to the conversations and obvious education mindtalking. As I wander, the wind always his me in the face and by the Pantheon, the Univeriste' and Faculte' buildings all resound with the phrase " Liberty, Equality, Fraternity". The Pantheon is an architectural wonder ass the busts of Aquinnas, Moliere, Hugo and others, stare muted at those who pass. A small section of history looms in a tiny section of intellectual inquisitiveness.

A long but adventurous walk takes me to the evening destination of Opera Garnier, the centerpiece of the L'Opera. As night approaches slowly, the Opera is lit and sparkled with golden highlights. composers, arched walkways and marble -like steps, illuminate all of the square. A bustle of activity abound in the area as shops and merchants are still open, commuters ascend from the subway and vehicles wend their way through the crowded streets and boulevards. Sitting at Triador Haussman on the corner of L'Opera, gives one the opportunity to see a different Paris. Women are dressed up and chic, look smart with men in dress clothes, oftentimes scarved or jacketed for the evening. They aren't all going to the opera, but look smart- until the jeaned, sloppy over sized shirted Americans shift the focus. Even the demeanor and posturing is sharply different. Again the fashion contraction is truly apparent and I prefer the former. I wonder why?