Fini- Au Revoir

Hemingway wrote of Paris:

"There is never any ending to Paris and the memory of each person who has lived in it differs from that of any other. We always returned to it no matter who we were or how it was changed or with what difficulties, or ease, it could be reached. Paris was always worth it and you received return for whatever you brought to it." ~A Moveable Feast~

I write of Paris:

"Paris is worth it. All the steps, cobblestones and arches wash away under the vaulted trees, wide walkways, flowered boulevards and marked with the shadows of the city. Walk quietly with the winds returning the memories of the Champs Elysee to the night and the moon above. The moon dark sky lit the city and the Cite' returned the favor... easily." ~i-Ross~

Poets and Dreamers

Mistress of My Desires




Your breath, warm and fleeting on the back of my neck

brings a smile to my face.

The memory of you lingers in my mind like a song that

resonates in my heart.





Your heartbeat energizes my being.

the pulsing rhythm of your existence

haunts me, makes my days and night

move forward with a pace that cannot be denied.



Your essence fills my soul and stimulates my senses.

I'm reminded of you by a fleeting scent that assails my nose

while strolling carelessly down the street.

a sound or song that invades my solitude returns me

to your loving embrace.



You wrap yourself around my mind and body

like a blanker of security. Leaving me in a cocoon

of complete acceptance and sheer joy.



You are an integral part of my life.

The heart of my being,

The director of my soul.

The mistress of my desires.

You are Paris.



Rebecca Jane Evilsizer (Alford)

Practical Paris Planning

I recommend the following hotels: A + indicates HIGH recommendation

Hotel Camelia

24, bd Pasteur (métro Pasteur) 75015 Tel. 33 (0)1 47 83 76 35 - Fax 33 (0)1 40 65 94 98

www.hotelcameliaparis15.com

+ Hotel Acacias Hotel de Ville

20, rue du Temple
Tel. 01 48 87 07 70- Fax 01 48 87 17 20
www.acacias-hotel..com
0, rue du Temple

+ Hotel rue du Rivoli
19 Rue De Rivoli
Paris

+ Hotel Victoria Chatelet

17 Avenue Victoria . Paris 75001
Tel: (+33) 1 40 26 90 17 - Fax: (+33) 1 40 26 35 61
http://www.hovica.com/

Hotel Roma Sacre Coeur

101 Rue Caulaincourt
Paris, 75018

Hotel Montparnasse Alesia
147 Ter Rue D’Alesia
Paris 75014

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Paris Arrondissements

1st (1er). The geographical centre of Paris and a great starting point for travelers. The Louvre Museum, the Jardin des Tuileries, Place Vendôme, Les Halles and Palais Royal are all to be found here.
2nd (2e). The central business district of the city - the Bourse (the Paris Stock Exchange) and the Bibliothèque Nationale are located here.
3rd (3e). Archives Nationales, Musée Carnavalet, Conservatoire des Arts et Métiers, the northern, quieter part of the Marais
4th (4e). Notre-Dame Cathedral, the Hôtel de Ville ( Paris town hall), Beaubourg, le Marais (gay Paris)
5th (5e). Jardin des Plantes, Quartier Latin, Universités, La Sorbonne, Le Panthéon
6th (6e). Jardin du Luxembourg, Saint-Germain des Prés
7th (7e). Tour Eiffel, Les Invalides, Musée d'Orsay
8th (8e). Champs-Elysées, the Palais de l'Elysée, la Madeleine
9th (9e). Opéra Garnier, Grands Magasins
10th (10e). Canal Saint-Martin, Gare du Nord, Gare de l'Est
11th (11e). the bars and restaurants of Rue Oberkampf, Bastille, Nation, New Jewish Quarter
12th (12e). Opéra Bastille, Bercy Park and Village, Promenade plantée, Quartier d'Aligre, Gare de Lyon, the Bois de Vincennes
13th (13e). Quartier Chinois, Place d'Italie, La Butte aux Cailles, Bibliothèque Nationale de France (BNF)
14th (14e). Montparnasse Cemetery, Denfert-Rochereau, Parc Montsouris
15th (15e). Montparnasse Tower, Gare Montparnasse, Stadiums
16th (16e). Palais de Chaillot, Musée de l'Homme, the Bois de Boulogne
17th (17e). Palais des Congrès, Place de Clichy

18th (18e). Montmartre, Pigalle, Barbès

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Paris Sights

The Eiffel Tower: When you mention Paris, most people automatically think of the Eiffel Tower. The Eiffel Tower was built for the 1889 World Exposition. When the tower was first unveiled, the populace thought it was a towering monstrosity, and it was nearly torn down. Since then, more than 220 million people have visited the Eiffel Tower, and it has become a national icon. The tower is beautiful to behold when lit up, and offers a spectacular view from above, or below.

Notre Dame Cathedral: The Notre Dame took over a century to build, and was once the center of medieval Paris. It is probably the most beautiful cathedral in all of Europe.

Arc de Triomphe and Champs Elysees: The Arc was built by Emperor Napoleon, and offers a fantastic view. No trip to Paris is complete without seeing the sculptures and reliefs that adorn the arch. The promenade offers some spectacular shopping opportunities, as well as an assortment of cafes.

Versailles: Versailles was home to the King of France, as well as the seat of their government for more than 100 years. While walking through this remarkable palace, you'll feel like your walking in the footsteps of nobility. Inside you'll find the Hall of Mirrors, which consists of 250ft of sheer glass. The Louvre: The Louvre is home to some of the most famous works of art in the world.

Pere Lachaise Cemetery: The crypts are amazing to behold, and there are some extremely famous people buried here. Including Jim Morrison, Oscar Wilde and Richard Wright of Pink Floyd fame, Marcel Marceau and George Seurrat.

Seine River Cruise: See the majesty of Paris glide by while riding in a glass boat. You'll get to see the Eiffel Tower, old historic bridges and even the Notre Dame Cathedral.

Musee d'Orsay: One of the most visited museums on the planet, the Musee d'Orsay holds the biggest collection of sculptures and paintings produced between the years 1848 and 1914. If you're a lover of art, then this is a sight you won't want to miss.

The Sorbonne: Founded in 1257, the Sorbonne is one of Europe's oldest universities, and many a great thinker has wandered its halls.

Sacre Coeur and Montmartre: This basilica dominates the highest point of Paris, and was consecrated in 1909. It boasts gold mosaic interiors , and offers a magnificent view of the city below.

Catacombs: The catacombs have got to be one of the most popular sights in Paris among backpackers. These underground tunnels are lined with the neatly stacked bones of millions of Parisians which were placed in a disused quarry around 200 years ago to solve the problems of the city's crowded cemeteries. You get to walk a 1.6km stretch of tunnel and a guard will check your bags (for stolen bones) when you come out at the other end).


Centre Georges Pompidou: Also known as the Centre Beaubourg, this modern sits right in the heart of Paris and is home to an incredible array of modern art, a cyber café, a couple of restaurants and an excellent library. Although you have to pay to visit the art galleries, it is free to ride up to the top floor in the glass-tube escalators for a free view of the city centre. The library is also free (although there is often a long queue to get in) and has some English language books and newspapers, CD listening stations and free use of language courses on CD-ROM and cassette.


Hôtel de Ville: Famous as the backdrop in Robert Doisneau's photograph Le Basier de l'Hôtel de Ville, the town hall is an elaborate neo-Renaisaance style building which sometimes hosts exhibitions.

Musée Jacquemart-André: This small museum displays the private collection of Adouart André and Nellie Jacquemart, which features Botticellis, Rembrandts and 18th-century tapestries, furniture and objects d'art.

Musée du Louvre: This huge (about a third of a kilometer long) art museum is home to some of the most important pieces of art in the western world including the Mona Lisa and the Venus de Milo. The Louvre has recently received a billion dollar face-lift which has included the construction of a new entrance through a glass pyramid in the courtyard leading to an underground shopping mall and food court. During weekends and school holidays it can get very busy with very long queues, usually the easiest way to avoid some of the queues is by entering through the Carrousel du Louvre (shopping mall) - on rare occasions when there are queues in the Carrousel du Louvre you can try to jump the queue by telling the guard that you just want to get to the post office which is located near the entrance.


Musée National du Moyen Age: The Musée National du Moyen Age displays antiquities from the Middle Ages and is noted for its large collection of tapestries, which includes the famous Lady and the Unicorn Tapestries.


Le Panthéon: Although originally commissioned by Louis XV as a church, this prominent landmark is now the final resting place of many of France's most influential figures including Victor Hugo, Rousseau, Voltaire and Pierre and Marie Curie.


Tour Montparnasse: An amazing view of Paris from the top of the city's tallest office building. You can take the lift to the 56th floor of la Tour Montparnasse and then climb the stairs to the open-air observation deck on the 59th floor. It is best to get here just before sunset so you can see Paris in daylight, sunset and night.


Musée d'Orsay: After the Louvre, the Musée d'Orsay is perhaps the most important art museum in Paris. This former railway station has been converted into a pleasant art gallery housing the works of some of Europe's most important impressionist, post-impressionist and art nouveau artists.


Place de l'Opera: This square, which is often referred to as the Hub of the Universe. The Place de I'Opera was first projected in 1857 by Baron Haussmann, a sub-prefect under Napoleon III, to whom we owe so much for the modernization of Paris.

The Lapin Agile: Lapin Agile, Paris cabaret, is located in the center of the Montmartre district in the 18th arrondissement of Paris, behind and slightly northwest of Sacre Coeur Basilica. Today, many people visit the Lapin Agile, sitting at wooden tables where initials have been carved into the surfaces for decades. Located in a stone building on the steep and cobbled Rue des Saules, the cabaret presents visitors with French songs dating back as far as the fifteenth century.

Of People and Places

The fountains of the Louvre.

The City from Montmartre.
The contemporary meeting in the street of Paris.

The Louvre- Art historians mecca within the artisic community.

Bookstalls Line the Seine to ply their wares.
The arch commemorating the place of Beheadings during the Revolution.
The imposing prison of the Concergerie.

Dancing at the Meteora.

Street Scenes

Of course after crossing the Seine and entering the Latin Quarter, a cacophony of sounds sights and a menagerie of people and personalities emerge. this area, known primarily for its nightlife, is thriving and alive at any time- it is the petit city that rarely sleeps. Lined with bistros, cafes, brasseries, boulangerie, jazz clubs, boutiques, bookshops and tourist shops, the area provides entertainment for all ages and all desires. The Latin Quarter is a street wander becomes walking feast through crooked, cobblestones streets of old. it is a moving passageway to neon light, old world, voices of the multi lingual personalities and a roaring backlash of "tourism" at its height.

Shakespeare and Company bookstore is there (they will stamp your book purchase for you) where you can find all things literary. I'm a Hemingway fanatic and always purchase something of his at this shop. If the attic is open (rarely) venture the old worn steps. It is a small reading room with comfortable seating, views of the river and rustic in nature. This is a definite must, especially if the resident cat strolls by and gives you the nod of approval.

The St. Severin is a favorite for coffee and people watching and wonderful for an evening cognac or wine.. If you desire a passion for fish entrees, le Luna is in store. Under yellow washed walls and small cramped quarters where every gets to know you, you can dine on some of the best french fish dishes I have found in the city. If you are in the mood for Greek food, Le Meteora will give you hours of enjoyment. Greek aperitifs, main course skewers, great chocolate mousse, and drinks to which i could never even pronounce let alone spell. All food is served with live music, dancing and cajoling waiters, unsuspecting diners hoisted onto table tops and give lessons in dancing, a circle dance to the cheers and roar of the crowded restaurant. Songs are sung by everyone and plates are dashed to the floor in celebration of a great meal, new friends and yells and squeal's of laughter.

The street food amidst the convergence of the street performers and both french residents and visitors is best for food on the move. Crepes of any fashion, bread and cheese, hot dogs (yes they are there but so much better than home), all things felafel's and hand carved meats, chocolates and sweets by the delectable mouthful. There is a flavor and style for every palate and all one has to do is decide- now therein lies the problem...

Crossing the river will find you facing the looming Les Halles and the Marais. The morning finds the area recovering from the night past, and the night finds the area anticipating the coming day. these areas, cyclical in their nature attract the young and old alike to experience the flavor and excitement of another sort. The Forum is a garden contradiction to the area and the surrounding environs. The lattice work arches and infant gardens are set within the tubular glassed office and steel girders bordering Pompidou. The freshly cut grasses waft aromas and clash against the girdered steel of the "new" Paris. And incongruent clashing of wills if you may- One that is difficult to reconcile.

The narrow streets of old, lead to the Hotel de Ville and BHV near the Seine. A political palace of traditionalism is preferable. This preference stems from the flair of the Siene, the cutting edge of romanticism, separating the banks of creativity and logic. Walk the Rue du Rivoli and these sharpened contrasts become even more clear to the observer. They become a mix of art, passion and respect with dashes of logical, cubist colorings. Ahead, lies the magnificence of the turreted Concergerie- the prison which claims the honor of holding Marie Antoinette prior to her death. It is an imposing structure and in its full day a menacing one. today, a museum of infinite proportions holds history in regard and with a gardening calm. so much so, that the stoned walls and inner ambience's seem to belie the true meaning for its existence. similar to the Bastille area with no sign of the actual building.

But if you stop for a moment, sit and truly look, you will see that the world passes frantically yet slowly before you. Each person is on a mission in a city of mobile transience. It is as if the bridges, cobblestones and crooked streets have converged with the Life to which it surrenders. Yet, these elements blend together, fuse and become one- one that can be recalled time and time again without hesitation, for they have made an indelible imprint on your heart.

City of Contrasts

The cosmopolitan boulevards which cut the streets in a swath of gentile buildings and the working class neighbors provide a start contrast to an already contradictory city. The former is a place of contemplation, relaxation and a moment to "see"- much of the statuesque Paris is bound in history and loosened by the technologies recent to the country and world.

In contrast, the religious Sacre Coeur and Montmartre in the 18th Arrondissment, cause less reflection and more, well- pain. I should have taken the subway to Pigalle, but NO- I chose Abbesses as it seemed such a logical mapping choice. From the station it is a spiral stairway imbued with murals of all fashion, sort and color. It is definitely a feast of creativity for about 30 steps. But, as I go further upward not thinking this is a trial by fire, the top is just one more turn...WRONG. Hundreds of steps later, 3 breathing stops and half a bottle of water, I reach the top. This was worse than the Catacomb steps I think- but as my head is swirling, my only focus is the end, so I cannot really say for sure. I stopped looking at the mural and focused on my feet- Keep going, Keep going, for if you don't, there is only one option and that is go back down. Now, did I mention there was a elevator (lift)? I missed that piece of information when i say the murals and just HAD to see them.

After a short rest and walk down a lane, looking up the steep hill from here is the white domed Sacre Coeur...A wise man remembers: Look later. See if there is an elevator. (yes! a funicular will take you to the top) vistas of the city are breathtaking from the summit and the cathedral rests and is a beacon for those who gather. The steps and rails are filled with cameras, videos and throngs of people merely staring and watching the light change on the vast landscaped city beneath. It is a breathtaking vantage point for all who yearn to see the city from above.

This monument is the white dove in the sky and sits amidst an idyllic setting overlooking a foggy city shrouded in mist. Inside the church itself, it is quiet and relatively small for the churches here, yet it is a focal point of religious faith in France. Notaries visit and worship in the stained glass prism reflections on the side prayer sections and confessionals. It is was an enormous undertaking while being built with the white tile-like domes in elongated shapes reaching the sky canvas of blue.

Montmartre's "Place du Terte" is the ultimate tourist invasion and tour bus haven. It was originally an artist enclave and creative mecca for art purveyors. Now, this starving artist area has a modern twist- the artists certainly are NOT starving. Much of the artist display area has been assigned to restaurants for outside seating, buses arrive with tourists and flag holding guides to keep order and it seems as if the outdoor mall has been born. i marvel at the changes each time i visit. I wandered to Le Consulat, a triangle restaurant where many movies were filmed- the more notable, "Aimee". Nearby, Au Clairon de Chasseurs restaurant is decked in blue and white, sported lively waiters in suspenders, hats, fitted pants and personalities of lively warmth. They treated us well, have a flair for fun plus, the meal was expedient, well served, timely and delivered with,"Bon Apetit".

The subway takes me to the Sorbonne. It has become an intellectual contrast to Montmartre. The Place de Sorbonne centers itself with its energy, ethereal discussions and youth of experimentation. Tabac et Sorbonne is where I rest and then walk and listen to the conversations and obvious education mindtalking. As I wander, the wind always his me in the face and by the Pantheon, the Univeriste' and Faculte' buildings all resound with the phrase " Liberty, Equality, Fraternity". The Pantheon is an architectural wonder ass the busts of Aquinnas, Moliere, Hugo and others, stare muted at those who pass. A small section of history looms in a tiny section of intellectual inquisitiveness.

A long but adventurous walk takes me to the evening destination of Opera Garnier, the centerpiece of the L'Opera. As night approaches slowly, the Opera is lit and sparkled with golden highlights. composers, arched walkways and marble -like steps, illuminate all of the square. A bustle of activity abound in the area as shops and merchants are still open, commuters ascend from the subway and vehicles wend their way through the crowded streets and boulevards. Sitting at Triador Haussman on the corner of L'Opera, gives one the opportunity to see a different Paris. Women are dressed up and chic, look smart with men in dress clothes, oftentimes scarved or jacketed for the evening. They aren't all going to the opera, but look smart- until the jeaned, sloppy over sized shirted Americans shift the focus. Even the demeanor and posturing is sharply different. Again the fashion contraction is truly apparent and I prefer the former. I wonder why?

Finding the Human Side of Tranquility

Finding the unexpected in this city is not difficult as it confronts you at every turn if you are only willing to look. The morning finds us crossing a cultural divide as we stretch our legs in the direction of Avenue L'Armee at the Porte Maillot stations. Expecting a quaint side of the city, we found the Porte MALL. Naturally challenged in a mall, we walked completely around it until we gave up trying to find anything interesting but modern Paris. The subway took us to a different world however.

Off the subway at Argentine, we did find the Avenue and quickly realized this was the centerpiece for any gear head. Not that I mind, but it just isn't my thing. The street is lined with car (voiture) dealerships, motorcycle shops and repairs, bicycle stores and all thing mechanic. It is a window shoppers paradise for all thing "motor". Upon reaching the walkway of the Arch de Triumph, we were able to walk the full length of the Champs Elysee with "Freeman in Paris" resounding in our minds.

Sidetracked from the main Boulevard, the Palais Royale, Petit Palace and the Alexander Bridge filled with gilded lampposts, takes us in a new direction. The dark rainclouds loom above but Simone Bolivar, Winston Churchill and Clemenceau statues stand as a testament to the honor paid for and assistance to humankind during times of crisis. Their firm and imposing presence cause one to pause and reflect on the world outside the city and the influences the global community has made. but beyond the political influences lie the ordinary man- the man who inhabits and lives, breathes and works here. They are in all shapes and sizes, but those most likely to attract my attention are the homeless, out of work or poverty stricken with their animals. They enhabit the sidewalks, doorways, corners, alleys and niches of the city. Seeing them with their animals brings out the best in me and I have to chip in and do my fair share. I must think it goes for the welfare of the animal and i merely cannot resist.

The 2 hefty dachshunds sitting upright in the bearded mans lap, the calico cat sitting atop the kitty carrier and the golden lab carrying a basket in his mouth for "contributions" and a lapping kiss. It doesn't seem unusually sad as they all look well cared for and fed, but I still have to give of myself to the animals and their owners of the world. I know I would want to be helped out if I needed it. Each time, 1-4e seems little to give when I and my animals (dog and 2 cats) are fine. A man with an organ grinder on the Grande Boulevard with his sleeping dog and cat under an umbrella come to mind. I have not seen them this trip and worry that the animals have passed...

This afternoon, i head to the 18th Arrondissment....

In Pictures Lie Memory

City Sights to Series

Although groggy and tired from the evening, it was up early and out the door to a cafe for a coffee (are you surprised?) croissant, butter, jam and orange juice before hitting the cobblestones for another day in the city. Refreshed and two cups later with people watching, the city begins to awake and show its colors to the world. a short subway ride to the Catacombs, the morning venue.

Waiting for the it to open, a leisurely stroll in the park, watching the boulee (bowling) teams prepare for the day and seeing the dogs and people begin their morning routines. As the musee opens, I was completely unaware of the darkness and dank environment I was about to enter.

After 380 steps down to the long, dark corridors marking the numbered graves of the 16-17 and 18th century victims, I was stunned. there graves were mere numbers and a "J" marked on the tombs were that of families, persons and populace of France- primarily of Paris proper.The catacombs web and spoke beneath the living city but still vie for their place within the historical construct of time. Bones and skulls are stacked from floor to ceiling revealing thousands upon thousands of remains forming a framework of a graveyard lost in the shadows below the streets and boulevards of Modern Paris.

The lights of this city have only dimmed for these souls lost, as the remains of 6 million rest here and call to each who pass through their resting place. The Catacombs extend for miles and the bones and skulls of the "innocents" removed from their above ground cemeteries find their place in the darkened home of this tomb. Hugo, Rousseau, Camus and others mark the "le Morte" of the deaths in simplistic memorials to generations of once thriving Medieval and Renaissance humankind. Skull and crossbones marking indicate your direction as you pass the neatly stacked rows of limbs, skill and torso bones. Nearing the end of the winding pathway, is the Arch opening to a slab centered within the room like an altar. It was, however, for a darker purpose- it was the place used for lethal injection and major surgeries underground. It is a frightening reminder of the primeval, primordial mankind preceding the now tourist venue.

I had forgotten the" what goes down must come up theory" thus, those 300 plus steps are a challenge. After many breathing stops, there lies a bench at the top to "catch your breath". Inhaling is NOT an option- it is an essential stop and wheeze stop before you are checked upon exiting. "Bones as souvenirs have been taken," explains the guard. Needless to say, i am shocked. Who? and WHY? cross my mind. Isn't it enough that the tomb conjures the most somber memorial, yet someone wishes to make parts of it s "souvenir"? Humans oftentimes confuse me in matters such as these.

Emerging into the light is blinding and takes a moment to comprehend before leaving this place of introspection. but, after coffee (smile) and a bit of a rest, the ile St. Louis beckons.

All of the islands are connected by an intricate maze of bridges and Ile St. Louis is no different. Upon crossing, immediately to the right is my favorite restaurant for lunch with the most flavorful and inexpensive soup l'onion gratinee and croque monsieur/madame- "La Chaumiere en L'ile. A crowd has gathered, so we stood watching as a man approached. " May I have a light?" was his query. I obliged and as he walked to the cafe, I realized that filming of some sort was taking place at our favorite cafe. We sat across the street after buying Berthillon ice cream (the best in France) and had a coffee (YES!) and merely watched the process of shooting. our waiter informed us that the series "Panama" was being filmed today and that we had become part of the background due to our placement at the corner table across the street. Supposedly it is a mystery/thriller/action series shot in Paris. I am a star!! Ok, Ok. I stumbled on it, was an unwitting extra, and have no clue as to what is happening in the scenes. But does it matter? I will be part of the fabric of evening french television viewing.

Abandon lunch for now and we will find something on the streets as we move. We walk from one end of the Ile to the other and find that the point in the middle of the Seine, near the Pont Neuf Bridge, is the western point of the ile. A beautiful park, statuary and walking path lends itself to lovers, picnickers and not often, tourists. It is the idyllic spot for a respite from the bustling city which surrounds you- all while standing in the middle of the Seine. A wonderful find!

The evening finds us tired yet unwilling to relent. We want to the smallest street in Pairs, the Quarat, then to il de la Cite across the bridge of lights. The Eiffel Tower looms in the distance as we slowly walk the bridge of the Seine at night with the wind gusting into your faes which invigorates us temporarily. The lightening behind Notre Dame is flashing as it stands at the end of the bridge in the distance. Notre Dame now looks as if it is dressed for the evening ball. The light has gone except for the floodlights, and it stands in this muted haze that shine from its base to the spires. Truly a magnificent sight as I head to the side entrance for a unique concert.

The Gregorian Chant echoes in the domes and the gothic space as if it is a lullaby of sound. The 10 men and 4 women in blue, form the tableau's of the hours of Christ's life. The reddening dome, the black cross, the white statue of Mary holding the child behind the altar, turn while and glistens across the cross of gold above. A contrast to the stained glass and upper balcony arched columns to the top of the church. Truly a lighting marvel. Although tired, I was inspired to know more- see more- experience more. The lull of the sounds and the cold interiors of the cathedral take one back to thoughts of "What was it really like?" I can only speculate and take my mind to that place...

A Parisienne at Home

Recipes to remember and try when you return home... Each will bring back the savory goodness of your trip and conjure memories of the places you ate, relaxed, enjoyed and revelled in being a Parisienne- if only for a moment.

Soup L'Onion
Prep time / Cooking time

20 mins / 1 hour
Ingredients
1 1/2 lbs onions thinly sliced2 oz butter10 oz (2 cans) beef stock1 tb Cognac or Brandy 2 tbs flour1/2 tsp. saltFrench bread or hard toast1 cup of grated swiss or gruyère cheese

Step 1: Slice onions thin
Step 2: Melt butter in a pan and cook onions until lightly browned over medium heat for 15 minutes
Step 3: Stir the flour and gently blend it with the onions
Step 4: Add beef stock and Cognac. Bring to a boil. Reduce heat to low, cover and simmer for 20 to 30 minutes
Step 5: Toast the bread at 325 degrees F (165 degrees C) for 10 minutes
Serving: Pour soup into bowls, float bread and add cheese. If the bowls are ovenproof bowls, you can place the filled bowls under the broiler to brown the cheese.

Wine suggestion: Beaujolais, Riesling

Quiche Lorraine
Prep time / Cooking time

20 minutes / 30 minutes
Ingredients
Pie pastry 6-8 slices of bacon, diced3 eggs 1 1/2 cup of whipping heavy cream1 or 2 tsp of butter, 1/2 tsp of salt 1/4 tsp of pepper1 pinch of grated nutmeg

Step 1: Preheat oven to 400° F (200° C)
Step 2: Put bacon dices in boiling water for 1 or 2 minutes. Drain. Put in a pan and heat till brown. Drain again.
Step 3: Rool out pastry in a pie pan. Pastry should come about 1" up the sides.
Step 4: Beat eggs, cream and seasoning. Add bacon.
Step 5: Pour mixture on the pastry, no more than 3/4 of the pie pan. Step 6: Reduce heat to 300° F (150°C). Bake for 30 minutes or until pie is cooked. Put a knife in the midle, if it comes clean the quiche is ready.
Step 7: Let the quiche cool. Do not remove it from the pan. Goes well with a salad.
Suggestion:Although traditional recipe does not include it, you can add swiss cheese such as Gruyère (in step 4). 1 cup or 4 ounces.

Wine suggestion: White wine from Burgundy, Tokay d'Alsace


Chocolate Moussse

Prep time / Cooking time

20 min / none

Ingredients
4 egg yolks3/4 cup sugar6 oz dark chocolate, semi sweet or bitter sweet4 tb coffee6 oz butter, unsalted4 egg whites

Step 1: Beat the egg yolks and sugar until it turns into a a thick yellow mixture.
Step 2: Melt chocolate and coffee in a mixing bowl. Put the mixing bowl over hot water so that mixing is easier. Add butter gradually and beat until cream is smooth.
Step 3: Beat the chocolate with the egg yolks and sugar mixture.
Step 4: Beat the egg whites and a pinch of salt until stiff. Sprinkle 1 tablespoon of sugar above and beat again for a couple of minutes.
Step 5: Stir about one third of the egg whites into the chocolate mixture. Stir well, then add the remaining whites.
Serving: Refrigerate for at least 2 hours. Can be served with whipped cream or custard sauce.

Wine suggestion: Champagne, Sauternes, Muscat, sweet white wine

Into the Fray

After a well deserved and restful slumber ( I was out like a light) the morning brought coffee, creme, croissants, jam, orange juice, hard breads and and in-room satisfaction before the day begins. The subway (Metro or Metropolitain) is literally 30 steps from the hotel entrance and I am off on another adventure for the day. In past trips the Carte l'orange or Navigo metro pass has been used, but this time I try to Paris Visite pass. subway access can also be gained by carnets used individually but is more costly. Contact the french railway for cost and prices of all passes- they do have something for everyone and every time schedule.

The subway winds its way to Metro St. Paul where a 12 piece impromptu orchestra uses the acoustics of the rounded subway ceilings to make wonderful echoes of their music. We mounted the stairs to look from above when they played classic Vivaldi, "Spring" and the sights and sounds add to the morning adventure. Truly a sight in the bustling movement of the subway, some stopping for a moment, other listening for a bit and others sitting on the sides of the long alleyway underground, to hear the clarity of sound. Truly an bombardment of the senses. an older woman ( I should talk), quietly leaned against the wall below, staring towards the orchestra. She became lost in time yet keeping the beat with her once nimble hands. Precisely hitting each chord and conducting the movement with her arms signalling each sound. She was a passerby, merely caught in a moment of sound in which she chose to participate.

Ascending to the street and the fresh, clear air of morning, we shop the area one small boutique after another for some incredible finds in material, chocolate, candies for the relatives at home. Taking a piece of Paris home is not a difficult task with the multitudes to choose from, but shoose wisely. Small and manageable items of chocolate, scarves, watches, shoes and clothing are the best for friends and relatives. You will have the memories and pictures ( take many) to remember your trip.

After meandering the shops and lanes and several passageways (covered marketing areas with shops), we find our journey in a place we have looked for in the past, but have always been delayed or distracted, thus never finding. rue de Rosiers is a small seemingly lost street that takes you back in time. It is old, narrow, dusted with the webs of the past both literally and figuratively. Rosiers is the Jewish section of the city still boasting a thriving community with the spirit and honor of the past trying desperately to fit with the contemporary world. This was one of the many deportation areas throughout the city and a reminder that in revealing itself to the tourist, is a passageway into the history of a dark European era.

The ecole (school) is marked by the plaque of deportation of children, Jewish men huddled in black with squared hats beards and side ringlets, vigorously express their conversation in hushed tones but animation, the synagogue looms to the sky behind stark walls and the narrow alleyways of the area are reminiscent of the dark stone walls of confinement. As i stand reading the deportation plaque, a police siren wails in the distance- that two toned ring signalling the impending danger. No one on the street seems particularly interested, but to me, it startles me and brings me to the WWII era. the same sounds echoing through the street when menacing occupation troops came to "resettle" this area. It was an eerie reminder and haunts me each time I hear the sirens.

The area ends as inauspiciously as it began. The path to Place Vosges past the Holocaust museum ( i have already seen this venue), is now a means to lunch in the rain. Sitting in Place Vosges under the canopied arches looming above next to a heater, coffee is needed and time to pull the scarf out. Drenched, yet smiling we lunch next to the art galleries of the Vosges and revel in the places we have already found on a somewhat dreary day. But we head out refreshed and ready to find new parts of the city we haven't seen in times past.

this afternoon we are entering the musee du Jacquemart, a mansion tucked in the city which is overlooked if you are not actively seeking it. It is a marvel wonder with landscaped gardens, fountains and flowers which extend inside to the conservatory and the split staircase to the second floor. a beautifully decorated home with art, sculpture, furniture and windows of the period. Lunch, coffee or tea can be taken in the small and cozy restaurant area near the bookstore. It is as if the mansion and small piece of architectural wonder has been placed not to be found by the tourist, but for those who persevere, upon finding this gems, it will be one of the many memories of what Paris was like and possibly still is. One simply must look beyond the glossy brochures and hit the streets.

The rain has forced us to sit under the canopies of the outdoor cafes for coffee. Now, I don't ever have to be forced to rest and have french coffee. It truly is a way to energize the mind and heart before moving to another perspective of life in the city. Heading back to the hotel to refresh before the evening, we are huddled and laughing under our umbrella (parapluie) as we a bumped, jostled and hip checked by others who cant remember the size or positions of their umbrellas. Nothing intentional, merely a matter of survival in the rain and the natural flow of walking the byways and sidewalks of the city.

That evening, we attend the Cathdral concert at 8pm. the Paris Orchestra and Opera is filling the Cathedral with "Elias" and seating is open. arrive early for concerts and mingle with those in line and you will learn more about the city than from any book, blog or critic. We met a couple who had come from the United States, loved it, and sold their home. They moved to an apartment in Paris. They now live in the Marais section of the city and love the opportunities the location provides. It did cost however- 3,000e a month, but his tone was uplifting as he told us, "It has a lift!" The perspective shifts as I come to realize that, yet again, the simple parts of life are the positive.

The concert ended at 11pm and although tired from the daily drek, we know that our room awaits and there is another day tomorrow. Oh, to sell my house and become a resident of this city- A delightful and PERFECT thought....

Lets talk FOOD- (the Cost anyway)

Having a moment to record prices keeps costs in perspective. I am a coffee drinker (I call it plasma for my soul) so, I must account for it. Make no mistake, some parts of France and Europe are expensive even with the exchange rates. Plan for what you ENJOY and don't think about it. Let it happen and you will find it so much more pleasurable as you "rent" a table for as long as you choose to sit there- all for the price of a meal or an appetizer or simply a cup of coffee.

• cafe noir- (black coffee)- 2.40- 4.00 e
• cafe creme or cafe chocolate chaud- with milk 4.50 e
• Gratinee L'Onion- (Onion soup)- 8.00-9.50e
• Quiche Lorraine- 8.00-100e
• Saucisses and Frites (Sausages and Fries)- 10.00-12.00e
• Salade and Frites- 10.00e

le Marche Franprix ( grocery store rather like a 7-11)

• fruit- .65e each
• 4 Jambon (slices of Ham)- 2.75e
• Mayo tube- .75e
• Volvic Bottled Water- .63e
• Bread- 14 slices- 1.99e
• Milk- 1.25e
• Chocolate bar or candies- ANY price suits me...

The Notre dame plaza and the cathedral, flanked by the Seine is a stop for all visitors- even those of us who return yearly. The overlooked center point of France embedded in the plaza, is a golden starred point giving the center directions of measurement troughout France. It was, then, a long walk to Haussmann and time to find a "le Marche Franprix" for a Sunday evening meal outside. Ham, guyere, milk, SALT (i collect from each country), L'Ancienne crisps are the order of an easy but late supper near the Boulevards of Paris.

I drifted on the lawn and thoughts of increased police presence, the smells of Paris, the New tower finally stripped of its green mesh encasement for the earlier restoration, the homeless sleeping on the subway grates, masses of people with an increase of the crass and noisy Italians, and the aroma of fresh French coffee. Place du Chatelet came alive and i suddenly awoke to the sound of the brass band playing their one of many concerts at the foot of the monument. It is as if music is the beat of the city which gives breath to emotion. both connect and stir a passion for the "place", not merely the "sights".

Lured by my drifting, i knew that grande caffe noir was essential. It was "Le Notre Dame Cafe" next to the Seine which gave me the impetus to sit outside even though it was windy and cooler than normal. dusk was about, lights were coming on and the city was alive with adventurers and strolling musicians and lovers of all sorts. Sitting, watching the evening wrap itself around the city, is a delight and having the steaming coffee to keep you warm, gives you an insight to the people and their passions. It is about taking your time. Not worrying about the past or the future, but living for the moment, thi spresent and this day. Noise shifts to the music of the city as it darkens and people still mill and toss their inhibitions to the sounds. Definitely a people watch and enjoy type of place on the corner of the Seine looking at the now lit cathedral. Such an impasse between old and new- much like the chasm between young and old. But here- it doesn't matter. they blend together and become the steam rising from the Levassa coffee cup...rising into the nights stillness of a new place. Simple yet complicated this city which lay before me in all its colored sound and impeccable fashion.

Notre Dame Cathedral from the river Seine. this is a definate must see for any visitor- an architectural and spiritual mecca for historians, clergy and structural voyeurs. Look for the the gargoyles and venture the stairways to the top and see the city form a vantage point seen by few.

The river Seine which borders Notre Dame Cathedral on the Ile de Cite.

The rose window within the sanctuary of the Cathedral.

Center of France with the Star in the plaza in front of Notre Dame Cathedral.

Location is the Key

Hotel Victoria Chatelet is a wonderful small and family run hotel in Arrondissment 1, merely a block from the Seine and 4 blocks from Notre Dame Cathedral. It is a central location which gives you a downtown, first class view of the city and yet, it is a budget price of 106.00 euros for 2 and 7.50 euros for breakfast served either in the breakfast room or delivered to your room

The hotel is welcoming, most rooms have a small balcony and offers terrific views of the city, architecture of the city streets and the charm of a location which cannot be beat. It is where I stay each time, and from the stained glass iris mural in the entryway to the welcoming staff and owner, it has become a home away from home for any traveller. The rooms are well equipped but not overdone. It is the place and area of both day and night activities as it is central to the city and filled with restaurants, bistros, fountains, people and shopping.

Rest is important to me, but the first day in the city will find me at the Center of Paris in a few short minutes walk form the hotel, Notre Dame Cathedral and the vespers evening chant, and the Latin Quarter for jazz and nightlife.

Begin the Journey

Anticipation looms as I board the US Airways flight to Paris via Philadelphia. Passport, travellers checks, cash, approriate reservations and tickets in hand, venturing into the french capitol is another momory about to be made.Taking a european vacation is something I do each spring, and i look forward to the planning and the eventual trip is all part of the vacation process.

After a long flight, some sleep on the plane and a wide-eyed enthusiasm, there is tourchown at Charles deGaulle Airport north of the city. the airport is a labrynth of concrete and people movingdevices. It is not like the airports I am used to for its creature comforts but serves its purpose. One of the largest in europe, the facility is grey and unwelcoming, but after the customs check and baggage loading on the carts, I am off to find my shuttle to the hotel in the city.

I use the shuttle as opposed to RoissyBus or Metro line, as it is less time consuming and a better way to see parts of the city usually not seen. Bluvan shuttles to hotels within Paris and is 37.50 Euro for two. Easily arranged online, the shuttle awaits and I am off to the city itself ( in about 45 minutes dependent upon traffic at the arrival time).

Of Paris.......

“The real voyage of discovery consists not in seeking new landscapes but in having new eyes.” ~Marcel Proust~

Traveling is a way to evoke thought, create adventures and crystallize memories. From a guy in Minneapolis, the passion of travel begins with a dream and ends in a reality. What a better way to begin than in Paris- the City of Light.

From her bridges spanning the Seine, to the monuments of architects long past and rows of bistros and brasseries- shops and markets, the narrow winding streets and alleys becon to any romantic. Wander and lose yourself in her mystery. Feel her windy touch, smell the city both above and below ground, hear her whispers. Let this city touch you and she will own you.

Paris- My memory- My second home.